Kigoma visit and back to Dar
The tale end of our Tanzanian revisit and Lake Tanganyika sites were great ...... but going to Ujiji was something!!!
26.08.2009
Saturday 22nd August – at the Sleep Inn Hotel in Dar es Salaam
We had a nice tea/dinner at the in-house restaurant and then I slept well after checking all could go into my main luggage as we planned to take only carry-on luggage to Kigoma. John was going to try to view a DVD using my computer but he didn't have my password to open the computer up …. so that didn't work for him.
Sunday 23rd August – Dad would have been 93 today …... and today we are heading to Kigoma, on the shores of Lake Tanganyika (longest lake in the world and second deepest lake in the world, and it part of the Great Rift Valley!) - Kigoma is where most of us lived last before leaving Tanganyika in late 1961 to go to live in Australia for good.
We had breakfast at 7am …. actually about 7.10 and then closed our big luggage and the front office locked it in the store-room until we were to return. 7.45am and our taxi man Moodi was ready waiting outside – so off we went with him to the airport. The Precision aircraft was due to leave for Kigoma at 9.20 but I think we got away around 9.40. We were to go down in Tabora, on the way to Kigoma, as there were some passengers there to collect and some folk getting on at Dar wanted to go to Tabora – hence the itinerary changed a little.
We touched down onto the dirt runway in Kigoma and once out of the plane headed to the exit of the arrivals lounge and looked for a taxi with driver. We asked the driver if he coulf show us the house where we used to live at 'Bangwe', as well as the Livingstone/Stanley meeting place and memorial at Ujiji and take us to the Lake Tanganyika Hotel – and we asked what his price would be …. he said 30 000 T.shillings – so we were happy with that so he took us to the Hotel first to book in.
Then once done with the paprwork at the Hotel we went with the Taxi and after locating the approximate area of where the home could be we asked a Form 5 student who knew a bit of English and he got further details and so John and I walked with him to the top of the hill to find the house..... a lot more worn, but it is a private house now and we met an African lady there and she said she works at the Hotel we were staying at!!! Amazing!! Anyway she said I could take some photos, so I thanked her. The road goes up to the house a different way now, and there's a couple of schools now on the same hill, so it looked quite different to when the house was the only building there in 1960-61!
The student took John and me down a 'short-cut' walking track and as we started off John asked him if there'd be any snakes …... but I was a bit concerned with some of the steeper declines and took the nearest sort of gutter to stay safeand go down very steadily! Once down in the centre of the school he showed us some of the buildings explaining their uses, then we had to see the dining room where the one TV was and there was sport on at the time and well over 100 school-boys were there viewing the TV!!
We got back into the Taxi and starting off on our next bit of journey. We arrived at the bottom of the hill and the driver said Ujiji to left and to right – I said to him you go the way you want to, and he decided to go left because he reckoned it was the shorter way to go!
After some distance on this road, all of a sudden there was a raised bit of road and then the road on the other side of the bump it looked like very soft powder-like dirt! Ahead you could see piles of gravel/dirt and they were obviously doing some work to improve the road! Well …. the car started to 'glide' a bit and the driver pressed onto the accelerator a bit more to move past the spot, BUT guess what!!!! the back passenger started going down deeper into the powder dirt! John said 'no, stop …. ' and the driver stopped.
John got out and tried to get the driver to understand the problem he had! A nice older African man came to help, John scooped out some dirt, then the driver stated again …... too soon, and so the tyre went down further! John looked at the back tyre where there was a huge gap and he asked me if the driver would need a 'jack' and I said 'no, what needs to be done is scoop out all the soft powder dirt from under the car, in front of the back wheel and in front of the front tyre, then push some old fronds and pebbles under and in front of the back wheel, then get the young men and teenage boys (4) to push while the driver starts to go forward SLOWLY.' John also helped to push whilst pushing down on top of the area above the back passenger tyre – and SUCCESS.
The driver gave a couple of small notes to those who had helped with getting the dirt out and pushing the car. So we got going again and I hope the driver has learnt something through the incident!!
We got to Ujiji eventually and saw the site where Stanley found and met David Livingstone – it was now fenced off and there was a museum there – but we didn't really want to go through the museum so I took a photo and off we went. We saw through the township of Ujiji then went back to the Hotel. I offered him 35 000 T shillings as he'd gone through quite a bit of worry and stress I thought! - but he asked for another 5 000!!!!! Anyway it was good to see the old house and the Ujiji monument.
After a bit of a freshen-up after all the fine dust episode, John and I went for a walk to see the Kigoma Railway Station where we had got the train years ago to go to Boarding schools, and we walked through a bit of the town and when we got up the road to a high spot, going away from the township, I was able to get photos of the Lake Tanganyika Port which has been a very large and important port over the years.
Kigoma was also an important point in the slave trade as Africans from the western countries were brought through Kigoma carrying ivory and walking to the coastal towns of Bagamoya etc to be sorted, chosen and traded to become slaves (the ones that looked stronger and able) whilst the remainder were hung and thrown into the sea – so very sad). The chosen Africans for the slave market were then put into a Dhow and they sailed over to Zanzibar where the selling and trading took place.
We then walked back towards the Hotel we were staying at and walked past the previous Kigoma Hotel that was used as the hotel in 1960 and 1961 when we lived at Kigoma (the locals didn't know that it used to be the Kigoma Hotel!). Now it is used for a local member of parliament or district commissioner or similar. What a palatial dwelling for them!!!
In John's room he was able to get the Internet, however I didn't have my laptop with me but I checked my emails next morning at the office.
We had tea/dinner at the Hotel's restaurant (the cost was more than other places we have stayed at! But meals were nice) and the lady we saw up at our old house was working there that evening as well as in the morning when we had our breakfast.
I paid the Hotel bill early evening so we would be carrying less $'s on us for our time there.
The rooms were very spacious and comfortable, and having a large flat-screen TV was a bit good!!!
Monday 24th August
John woke up with a virus … had had a few sneezes so I asked if he wanted anything to help him and he said 'no, I have Echinacea'. I had Vitamin C and other things to help but John was going to look after himself!
We had breakfast and the choice of things to eat was good – they even had maandazis there … so I hopped in and had 2, in case I didn't get another one whilst here!!!And I am not putting on weight! If anything I may have trimmed up a tiny bit!!!
I then found a film to watch!!!! on the TV – about a guy in America who was asked to build an Ark as a dam burst and he ended up saving lots of folk as well as two of all the animals …. it was very relaxing just sitting there in the cool watching!!! Yes I enjoyed a lazy time there!!
We had to vacate our rooms at 10am so we took our hand luggage up to the office area – and the IT man tried to assist John in getting connected to the internet for me to use … but no luck there. John went for a walk while I checked emails on their computer and found a change in our plane's leaving time. Then I just sat and read and relaxed. John returned all hot and sweaty from his walk, but he seemed happy about his adventures! I asked him if he'd been trying to 'sweat the virus out?' and he said no!
A group of African men (from World Vision and other similar Aid Agencies) were also going to the airport to get the plane. They had all come over on the boat from the Congo – an overnight trip and sounded like it wasn't relaxing!! Anyway the American lady who had organised the Hotel's mini bus to take the men to the airport saw us waiting for our taxi and suggested we go in the bus with the men. As our taxi hadn't come and he was meant to be there 10minutes earlier we said we'd like to go in the bus. We donated to the cost of the bus ….. and off we went. Got paset the Railway Station and as we were going up the road the sight os the tiny, dried, salted fish in kilo bags got all the men wanting to buy some!!! So we stopped and many, many bags were purchased! Back into the bus they got, then the driver thought it would be good to have some – so another two bags were purchased! The doors were shut again and yes we went on to the airport.
The plane left at 12.55pm and the flight was smooth and arrived in Dar at 2.40pm. The back door was opened and everyone got up ready to get out and we were asked politely by the (we think she was a Kenyan, lovely and tall and paler skin) hostess to 'please be seated until the bus arrives' …. so we did what we were asked to do! A ride by bus took us to the arrival door/terminal entrance and we walked through to find Moodi our taxi-driver who took us to our Hotel, via the bank ATM!
We had tea at the restaurant with our Malaria tablets … John has one a week and I have one every night with food. I have to continue my tablets for 2 weeks after returning to Australia …. so I hope no malaria bugs stay in my system like they did in 1961. Malaria is no fun!
Tuesday 25th – hey it is David's 40th Birthday tomorrow in the USA – hope you have a great Birthday David!
Breakfast a bit after 8am. John had a good sleep he said and took his 'dowa' (medicine) at breakfast to conquer his cold. I am well!
He has obviously been checking things out with where to walk and what to see once we check out of our rooms about 10 or 10.30am this morning.
We will take the taxi with Moodi as driver to the Julius Nyerere International Airport leaving the Hotel about 2pm. As we are leaving the country we will do Customs check etc and go through the three security screens. Our Emirates flight is due to leave at 16:50 and expected to arrive in Dubai 23:20 which is 5hrs 30mins flying time.
We stay in Dubai for a little over 24 hours and our rooms will be in the Ibis Deira City Centre. We are booked to be picked up from the airport and will be driven back to the airport the next night by the same driver. We are also booked to go on a tour in a double decker bus so we hopefully we will see a lot of the buildings etc. We leave DubaiThursday 27th August at 02:40 and arrive in Melbourne 22:05 (13hrs 25mins flying) – so it has been a great trip. Back home soon.... from Eliz
Wednesday 26th August in Dubai
We arrived here local time 11.30pm (Tuesday) and going through all the checks at the airport – the last one before collecting our baggage I was asked what was in my handbag? So I took all the stuff out and I think what they picked up on was the batteries for the camera – and they asked what the little tablets were! So once satisfied the man thought he'd check my other carry on bag but was happy once he'd done the 'look through'.
At Dar es Salaam as you enter the first Departure area, you place all your luggage onto the screening rollers to go through a security check – John had forgotten to take his pocket knife out of his pocket so the man there watched John put it into his main luggage. Then you check in your luggage and hand over you passport many times.
John realised in the taxi going to the airport that he'd left his cap at the Hotel – so once our main baggage was booked in we went to the Duty Free Shop up stairs and he now has a new cap (it is not bright in colour (it is a John colour and preference) and has Tanzania on it!!! So as a consolation I bought a Tanzania key ring!
At the last security I told the man I had 500mL of water that I was drinking while waiting for the plane as there are no shops etc there – and he asked me to have a drink of it – so as I was thirsty I started to have quite a drink and he said 'enough, enough – it is okay!' So off we went and waited about 1hr 15mins.
The plane left about 10 minutes late but it arrived on time. Comfortable and good service but there were some restless, noisy kids on board – I felt sorry for one youg English guy next to this couple with their scamp! Totally carefree parents with an out-of-control young boy! Mmmmm!
We are in Dubai for the day and we will have breakfast when John stirs ….. he has until 9am and then I will knock on his door!
It is the time of Ramadaan (don't know how to spell the word) and so there is to be NO drinking or eating in public from 4.30am until some time in the evening! So I wonder how we will go with no water whilst being on the Big Bus and walking around in the heat!!!? An experience maybe!
Dubai from first impressions is so huge and spotless and new – but the haze over the city skyscrapers is thick – not sure if it is dust related or heat – or both!!
I will probably do a wind up blog once I'm back in Oz – it was great to revisit my homeland and I didn't “kiss the ground” or plant a tree …. no! I did a number of taps on the ground at Dar airport before getting onto the steps to climb into the plane. I said 'goodbye' to Tanzania and I said 'thanks for having me stay'. A last look at the countryside around and was happy to have visited … and I went inside the huge plane.
Thanks for coming on our revisit with us. What a wonderful 22 days!
Posted by eliznjohn 13:50 Comments (2)